I had such an amazing time in beautiful Paris. We did a lot, as you will see!
This post serves as “Part 1,” a recap of what we did for the first several days. If I am not super descriptive about a particular thing, don’t worry; I may devote a future post to the subject. I will also fill you in on such details like how much French I spoke throughout all these activities later.
We departed on Wednesday, April 9, 2014. Unfortunately, we suffered some bad luck driving to the Dulles Airport. On 495, the serpentine belt on Elizabeth’s vehicle broke in half. Even though she lost power steering, she managed to safely switch lanes and pull over on the right shoulder. We called Elizabeth’s dad who rescued us. All this occurred during rush hour. He arrived in what could be record time in such circumstances and a couple of minutes before AAA did to tow the jeep. Not having to worry about parking in the economy lot and then shuttling over, we were dropped off at the terminal a half an hour before the time we expected to arrive there. We had some time to kill, so we exchanged some dollars for euros and indulged in scrumptious burgers and fries from Fuddruckers for dinner. Our airline was Icelandair. We had a nearly six-hour flight to Keflavik Airport in Reykjavik, Iceland and then a over three-hour flight to Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris. On the flights, I read books on my Kindle that I was saving for the trip. I also borrowed my friend’s headphones so I could watch the movie Chocolat. If I can’t sleep on planes, at least I can spend some time with Johnny Depp.
We arrived in Paris on Thursday, April 10, 2014. While Elizabeth waited to pick up her checked bag at baggage claim, I “checked in” at CDG airport on facebook. From Terminal 1 at the airport, we took a shuttle bus to the train station. Next, we took the train (the RER B) to a major metro stop in Paris, Châtelet. We transferred there, riding two more stops towards our hotel. Elizabeth was struggling a bit with her two 21″ carry-ons up stairs, through turnstiles and basically around a busy subway system. I fared much better with my single lightweight (20-lb.) 19″ carry-on and personal item bag thrown over my shoulder. I highly recommend that you pack very lightly if you are not going to pay for a taxi to the hotel and tip a bellhop to the room.
We arrived at out hotel, Normandy, located at 7 Rue De L’Echelle.
From the reviews, I expected it to be shabby, and it was. There was ripped and stained carpet, bubbled paint, chipped tile everywhere. The bathroom sink water pressure was low. But, the hotel is very old! Luckily, it was clean. In fact, I didn’t use my shower shoes (flip flops) once. I thought the room was spacious for European standards. We even had a big bathtub (with a shower curtain!) instead of a small shower stall. The hotel was centrally located in the 1st arrondissement, just blocks from the Louvre. You really can’t beat that! It matched the neighborhood with its grand style, columns and all. The staff was also very nice. Overall, I would stay there again and recommend it to others.
I love the scalloped detail on the ceiling above our two single beds.
High on my ‘to do list.’
Friday, April 11, 2014
Our hotel was nearly catty-corner from one of the locations of the famous breadmaker Eric Kayser. His Left Bank location was on my itinerary, but this location was a wonderful surprise. Since it was good and open early, we made it a regular spot for breakfast. We took our breakfast to the Louvre’s beautiful courtyard and ate on a stone bench. Our view was incredible with the Louvre buildings and the glass pyramid. We loved it so much, we wanted to eat there every morning! On Friday morning, I savored a pain au chocolat and a cappuccino and some water.
Saturday, April 12, 2014 was our major sightseeing day of the trip. From our hotel, we strolled along the Seine over to Notre Dame, stopping for a café for me and a café crème for Elizabeth standing at the bar at this place on the Left Bank right across the river from our first attraction on Île de la Cité. I love the western portal of the exterior.
I used to have the name of each architectural element memorized back in AP Art History in high school.
I had my travel buddy take pictures of me holding the card from my favorite coffee shop in front of it. I plan to provide the print for their “Where have you bean?” travel wall. We visited the cathedral which is over 850 years old and is amazing. Next, we walked eastward so Elizabeth could take pictures of all of it and I could peek at Île Saint-Louis. We just crossed the bridge and I took a few pictures of the buildings of this charming island.
Back on Île de la Cité, we visited Sainte-Chapelle which features amazing stained glass windows creating such a sacred space. The Conciergerie is next door. This building served as law courts and a prison. It was actually where Marie Antoinette was briefly held prior to her execution.
After that, we crossed a bridge to the Left Bank and toured the two-level Shakespeare and Co. bookstore which is quaint and invites you to linger and be inspired or curl up with a book. I found out later that this is not the exact location frequented by Hemingway.
After browsing the bookstore, we walked to the corner to Café Le Petit Pont for a coffee, orange juice and croissant breakfast. I asked for a café (meaning an espresso) but was served a café allongé which is an espresso cut with hot water like an American coffee, probably because I look and sound like an American as well as being in an establishment that catered to tourists. The butter croissant was beautiful, flaky, and delicious, not overwhelming with butter flavor like I feel they are in the US. The orange juice, with pulp, was served in a small stemmed wine glass. It was a very touristy spot. We were seated outside, so I could look out and people-watch. Most of the café chairs face out to do just that. I loved checking out what everyone was wearing. The sun was out. It was a cool spring day.
I noted in my little black leather lined notebook that, ” I even enjoy writing in this book a la Hemingway, imagining scenes from The Paris Wife in my head.”
We strolled through the Saint-Germain area in the 6th arrondissement. We came across a couple of famous coffee shops, frequented by great writers from the 1920s. First, was Café Les Deux Magots.
Sunday, April 13, 2014 was our day trip day. In fact, we took two day trips! In a single day, yes. First, Versailles and then Rouen. We got up early and crossed the two streets at the intersection in front of our hotel to arrive at Eric Kayser, our regular place. This time, we ate upstairs, sitting at the counter on stools taking in the view of the sleepy block. I had my first pain aux raisins, which was wonderful, just like I remember enjoying in Italy. Elizabeth tried it too and liked it, so much that I saw her order it regularly after that point. Her breakfast that morning was my favorite, pain au chocolat. I also ordered a cappuccino which was served in a clear glass mug with a silver handle.
I took a picture and posted it on facebook.
We took the metro to the (train) RER C to Versailles. Arriving, we followed the crowds walking through the town to the palace.
There was a long line, but like everything else so far, it was worth it.
In the Chateau, I loved to picture who used each room and how it was used. We saw the king’s bedchamber and the queen’s too, as well as as the rooms leading up to and just after them, for work and play. Some of these were holding rooms for the courtiers, waiting until they could attend to the monarch. Of course, everything was ornate and gilded. Also, distinctly masculine or feminine.
I was looking forward to the Hall of Mirrors the most and that ended up being my favorite at the Chateau.
I particularly adored all the crystal chandeliers.
Overall, it was stunning. Elizabeth took like 600 photos at Versailles alone!
We did not visit the gardens or other buildings on the complex. My feet were sore and we also wanted to visit Rouen the same day.
On the way back to the train station, I bought a postcard of the Hall of Mirrors, without crowds of tourists pictured, just for me. It was much too crowded for an amazing photo in real life, at least not on a weekend day.
When we arrived back in the city, we knew which street we wanted to stop at for a light lunch, in the lovely Saint-Germain area. Elizabeth got a gyro which was good and she informed me it was a better value here than at home. I got a slice of pizza margherita next door. We sat down and ate in front of Notre Dame. I convinced Elizabeth to backtrack and get gelato at Amorino. Not a huge fan of ice cream normally, she loved it! I’ve converted her, but then again, turning someone onto gelato is the easiest thing in the world.
Anyway, I chose a small cup with three flavors: chocolate, chocolate with hazelnut and stracciatella (which is cream with chocolate bits). It was delicious.
We took the metro and tried to find the transfer to the train station. The arrows posted made us walk in circles, up and down stairs! I suppose we looked lost because two guys asked us if we needed help. They gave us directions to the train station.
Finally, we made it on a regional train to Rouen. It was a quick trip and entirely lovely. We walked straight out of the station to the city center with several attractions. My favorite was a large astronomical clock, the Gros Horloge (“Big Clock”). There were two sides over an arch. The timepiece was gilded with dark blue and red.
I even purchased a postcard of it, along with one of Joan of Arc, who was burned at the stake in town, to send to my family (as an inside joke). I was delighted to see the restaurant where Julia Child dined on that well-prepared fish and fell in love with French cuisine, La Couronne.
It was one of the centuries-old half-timbered buildings. Many of these facades together make several areas of Rouen feel very quaint. I feel like it’s a Northern European influence. Located in Normandy, it is northern France.
Across the square of La Couronne is the modern church of Joan of Arc. It is low and wavy, very different. We wandered around, it seemed that there was a church on every corner. I noticed the gargoyles more and thought a small sculpture of one would make a fun gift for my godson. Unfortunately, part of the Western portal of Notre Dame was under cover, in restoration. This was the facade that Monet painted over and over, each time in a different light. We viewed three paintings of this subject at the Orsay. It was nice walking around, the sun was shining and it was cool. The shops were closed since it was Sunday, a day of rest. (Imagine that!)
We started to head back to the train station and passed some pink-flowering trees on the way. Hardly anything was in bloom when we left the US and it was nice to experience spring a bit earlier.
We bought return train tickets to Paris. I stamped them in a machine next to the track, just like in Italy. It was a two-level train and we chose seats on the upper level. I occupied a window seat. The Seine, mountains and towns of apartment buildings were out the window.
When we got back into the city, we decided to go out to dinner in the Marais, in order to experience another neighborhood (3rd and 4th arrondissements). We chose a restaurant called Little Italy which I had researched before the trip. I ordered rigatoni arrabbiata with Chianti.
I also had limoncello as a digestivo! I try not to overspend on extras normally but I was on vacation and decided to order it. I remember telling Elizabeth that I might dance back to the hotel.
